Tiled walls are used in the vast majority of bathrooms because they can endure humidity and water splashes while also being easy to clean. Tile is frequently used as a decorative backdrop around fitted baths when tiling around a bath is kept to a minimum. Some decorative baths are detachable, in which case the bathroom walls would be immediately tiled and this page would be unnecessary.
Most bathrooms are built to a regular size so that a paneled bath can fit along one wall, usually the “short” wall in a rectangular bathroom, and is covered on three sides. Large bathrooms can accommodate a bath in one corner, with walls on two sides and ornamental panels on the open sides and ends.
Since tile is impenetrable to water, exceptionally smudge, easy to clean, and accessible in thousands of colors, sizes, and styles, it is the most common pick for walls in new and rebuilt bathtubs. Tiling a shower or tiling around bathtub is a job that most individuals can handle with the necessary tools and materials—and the discipline to lay out the tiles appropriately.
Taking Care of Gaps
In larger rooms, there will likely be enough space at the end of the wall for a panel to be installed; but, in smaller bathrooms, the bath will either be wall to wall or have a narrow gap of less than 300mm. This space might be filled in to give the impression that the bath is resting on a tiled lip.
Preparing the Wall
You must verify that the walls are clean, stable, and free of loose plaster. If you plan to put a shower over the bathtub, you may need to build a protective, waterproof backer board or coat the tiled surface with a suitable sealant to keep it water-impervious for many years. It’s time to begin the tiling procedure with the learning-based in place or the walls ready to accept tiles.
Planning the Layout
The tiling side of bathtub will determine where to begin tiling and how to layout the wall for tiles. Begin by measuring the distance between the bath’s lip and the top of the ceramic area. If possible, you might want to change this height to avoid having to cut tiles. At this height, draw a straight line across your bath. At the midway point, make a mark.
Determine the number of tiles that will fit between the bath lip and the midpoint. Allow for the grout’s depth. If you only require a tiny slip of tile, a portion tile near the bath lip or at the top of your covered area may be preferable. Make the necessary changes to the inventory counts.
Next, estimate the rear wall’s length, cut it in half, and draw a diagonal line back to the back wall while behind the bath. Examine a row of tiles to determine the size of the opening at the corner or when to opt for an asymmetric cell or leave some stones to one side. To check for breadth variability, measure the width in at least three separate points (top, middle, and bottom).
If you’re using border tiles, tile skirting strips, or a row of tile backsplash to add texture, make a note of where they’re from. Make a further horizontal line at this height and fasten a board to the board all along the line as a reference to prevent tiles from moving once you know exactly your lowest row of entire tiles will be put.
Tile Should be Cut to Fit
Complete a current tile in place and indicate where it overflows the previous full tile still on the wall in which the tiles also have to be cut to fit against a corner or top.
Put the tile on the tiling cutter with the mark aligned with the slicing wheel. Slide the cutter’s movable fence against its tile’s edge to cut the adjacent tiles without having to mark them all.
Pull the cutting roller across the surface of the tile with a light falling price to score the glaze. Score the tile only once. Snap the tile in half by pressing down on the edge. Place the cut edges of the tiles even against the sidewall or wall.
Drilling a Supply Pipe for a Tub or Shower
Finish laying the tiles in the back structure’s other segments. Extend the lateral layout line to the wall surfaces, draw the plumb lines, and installing tile around bathtub for these walls in the same manner as the other walls. You’ll need to use tile blades to carefully carve notches in numerous tiles to fit them over protrusion fixtures like the tub and shower financial assistance or the mixer valves. Drill a hole using a diamond-grit hole to see if the pipe or valve body falls inside a single tile.
Tiles Nipping To Fit Around Fixtures
Lay the tile over the pipe (or next to the exposed piping) and press it into the adhesive once the hole has been cut out.
How to Put Tub Surround Tile in Place
According to Ferrante, the first and most critical stage in tiling bathroom walls is to start with a clean, sturdy substrate. He next uses thin-set mortar to cover the backer board seams and embeds stainless steel joint tape in the mortar. Ferrante then takes a step further and trowels know no haste mortar over the entire wall to guarantee a firm, light as a possible bond for the new tiles. You can also read the best tub surrounds here.
Ferrante utilized 414-inch-square ceramic tiles for this project, which are the most common and simplest bath tiles. The techniques are shown here, however, can be used on any type of wall tile, including stone and glass. Ferrante used latex tile mastic rather than today’s mortar to adhere the tiles to the substrate board. You didn’t have to worry about the tiles rolling down the wall because mastic is considerably stickier than cement.
Putting Tile Around Your Bath
Vertical and rectangular toilet walls are uncommon. Once you’ve decided on a tile layout, work outwardly from the center (or an altered center if portion tiles will only be used on one side). To achieve a uniform grouting line, apply appropriate wall tile adhesives to a duration of 1 square meter and install tile around bathtub edge or upwards using tile separators.
Between the emphasis tiles and the corner tiles, fill in the upper course of field tile on the retaining wall. You won’t trim the outfield tiles to fit if you’ve planned ahead of time. Take tiles from the first row of area tiles if you need to cut them to get the right wall height.
You’ll be able to make modest modifications at the margins instead of starting at one border and make changes for a somewhat out-of-square vertical by working from a precise vertical and horizontal general guide. For a similar finish, make absolutely sure all the tiles are uniform by pushing down any elevated corners or sides before the cement sets.
Creating a barrier around your Bath
It’s a good idea to cover the gap around the bath with silicone sealant before installing the final row of tiles. Use a pipe gun and sealant with an applicator nozzle cut to a proper thickness to fill the gap and secure a positive barrier while the glue on your floor tiles dries.
If you fill the bathtub with water first, you may find that you achieve a better seal, allowing for any bending. You can begin cutting and fitting the backside tiles once the main tiles have been installed. If the gap is slightly unequal, this will allow you to modify the tiles. Install the tiles around the bath and use silicone to seal the bottom side.
If you’re using metal or plastic border strips to execute the job, apply glue to the strip before placing the last row of tiles, then slide the walk back onto the tiles and press firmly attached.
Grout should be Applied
Install curved countersink tile around the margins of each end wall to complete the look. Allow the mastic to cure for at least one night.
Fill a bucket halfway with strengthened unsanded tile grout. To make a mayonnaise-like texture, add just enough water or latex ingredients (which reinforces grout).
Distribute grout crosswise across the tiled surface with a rubber trowel, pressing it deep into every junction. In this fashion, apply mortar to all three walls. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for the grout to set before wiping the tiles with a wide moist sponge placed flat against the wall. Wash the towel in clean water on a regular basis.
Remove any residual grout haze from the tiles the next day with a clean, dry towel. Lastly, fill the space between the bathtub and the first grade of tile with siliconized acrylic caulking that complements your grout color.
After 24 hours, use white vinegar to clean the area where the tile and tub meet, then apply tape to the tub’s edge and the tile’s face. Fill the space with clear silicone caulk, somewhat overpressurized it.
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